Romancing the rolls
By Jody Stump
This is an epic love story, a tale of romantic persistence to rival Psyche’s pursuit of Eros and it happened right here on Malibu Road. Seven years ago, Linda Cohen (who was not yet Cohen) was struck by Cupid’s arrow. He was handsome, smart and with the quiet confidence that hints of smoldering depths. Across a candlelit table on their first date, he was murmuring sweet nothings she was too smitten to hear. What was he telling her? How much he loved his mother’s sticky buns.
What?! Well, Linda was a gourmet cook, and if that’s all it took to win his lifelong affection, they were as good as married. Not quite. A few dates later, Ed threw down the ultimate reality challenge. If Linda could make sticky buns as good as his mom’s, he’d marry her.
The first were flat and hard as hockey pucks. The next, soggy and crunchy like sand stuck in your teeth. Things were not going well, so Linda did what any smart woman does under the circumstances, she asked Mom. Twelve hours later, she turned out a batch better than any so far, but they still didn’t pass the m-m-m test. Long story short, Linda baked an unbelievable 14 batches of buns before she found the secret recipe. Here it is.
Linda Cohen’s birthday present for the man she’d marry:
PECAN STICKY BUNS
(Adapted from “Baking with Julia”)
Making sticky buns is not only a labor of love, it’s very Zen. There is something spiritual about working with the living dough, watching it breathe and grow-the simple, ancient process engages every human sense in a thoughtful meditation.
(Note: except for milk, which must be between 100 and 110 degrees to awaken the yeast, all ingredients must be room temperature.)
1/ 3 cup lukewarm whole milk
1 package active-dry yeast
1 large egg
3 1/2 cups unbleached flour
1/3 cup sugar
1 tsp. salt
4 large eggs, beaten
1 1/2 sticks butter
Filling:
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
1 large egg, beaten
1 cup chopped pecans
Topping:
2 sticks unsalted butter
1 cup golden brown sugar
1 cup pecan halves
Day one:
1. In a heavy-duty mixer, use a rubber spatula to blend milk, egg, yeast and 1 cup flour. It will come to life and bubble making a sponge. Sprinkle another cup of flour to cover. Let rest 40 minutes. (It will crackle.)
2. Using the mixer’s dough-hook on low, stir the sugar, salt, remaining eggs and 1cup flour into the sponge until just mixed-1 minute. Sprinkle in 1/2 cup more flour until blended. Increase speed to medium and until dough wraps itself into big ball that slaps against the sides of the bowl. If it isn’t cohesive, add a bit more flour. Don’t skimp on mixing time-you must hear the distinctive “whap”-15 minutes!
3. Mash butter with a rolling pin to the consistency of the dough. Lower mixing speed and add butter gradually. Once all butter is incorporated, increase speed and beat 10 minutes, adding flour if necessary. It should look like silk.
4. Dump dough into a large, buttered bowl and cover. Put in a warm, draft-free spot for two to three hours until doubled.
5. Punch it down and cover tightly. Refrigerate overnight.
Day two:
1. Divide in half. On a lightly floured surface, quickly roll into a rectangle 11 x 13 inches x 1/4 inch. The yeast will respond to the warmth of your hands and try to rise again-don’t let it. Dot the surface with half the butter and fold the dough in thirds-like a letter. Turn so the opening is on your right and roll again, left to right, being careful not to crimp the edges. Fold again, wrap in plastic and refrigerate 40 minutes. Roll and fold the other half.
2. Filling: Mix sugar and cinnamon. Roll out a dough package again. Brush the surface with egg, leaving the top quarter bare. Sprinkle on half the sugar mix and pecans, pressing in the filling lightly. Starting at the base of the rectangle, roll into a log. Wrap in plastic and freeze until firm-45 minutes. (Note: You can double wrap and freeze for up to a month, but let them thaw 25 minutes before proceeding).
3. Topping: Press a stick of butter over the bottom of both 9-inch round cake pans and sprinkle with brown sugar. With a serrated knife, slice the log into 7-1 1/2-inch slices. Use your palm to mold each roll into a mounded round. Press pecans into the top and turn upside down into the pan making a circle with the seventh roll in the center. Allow to rest in a warm, draft-free room for two hours until the rolls touch each other.
4. Baking: Bake at 350-degrees for 40 minutes. Immediately, invert on a platter and serve warm.