Arnold G. York
Hello from Barcelona
We’re away on vacation in one of my favorite cities in the world, Barcelona. This time we decided to stay put and rented an apartment for three weeks in the old quarter of Barcelona, called the Barri Gòtic, in a section called the Born area. Most of the old quarter was designed in the Middle Ages or earlier so the streets are narrow, the buildings all made of stone, and you can go everywhere on foot.
The local kids go everywhere on a motor scooter and on every block they’re parked on the edge of the sidewalks, which actually leaves space for autos and makes traffic and parking a pleasure in Barcelona. Cabs are cheap and the Metro is clean and easy to use, so you can get around without much difficulty and don’t need to rent a car.
It took a bit of time to get used to the Spanish lifestyle. Cafe con leche and a sweet roll or sandwich for breakfast. A light lunch, typically after 2 p.m., and then dinner at 9 p.m. or 10 p.m. If you show up at a restaurant for dinner at 7 p.m., chances are the better restaurants won’t even be open yet. And if they are, you’re guaranteed to meet only other Americans and the Brits, but you’ll hardly see a Spaniard until well after 9 p.m.
After the novelty of being in a new city wears off you begin to notice things. The streets are clean and well maintained; people in green uniforms are constantly cleaning. But despite that they have the same graffiti problem we seem to have worldwide. The Spanish have a very social culture and meet and eat all the time, in cafes and restaurants, which are everywhere. Still, they’re all much trimmer than Americans. It’s unusual to see an obese Spaniard. It’s equally unusual to see an obese teenager or one that looks anorexic. Their kids, of all ages, seem healthy and physically fit, and the city is filled with classes and teachers going to all the parks and museums, apparently as part of their curriculum. Spanish kids, from toddlers to high school, seem better behaved than our kids and much more respectful of age and authority, whether it be a teacher, a cop or just an older tourist. What you notice is that their kids don’t whine, even though they take them to restaurants at 9 p.m. and 10 p.m., when most American kids would be falling apart.
Karen and I have debated why the Spanish are thinner than we are. They don’t appear to deny themselves anything, including dessert. You do notice different eating habits. Restaurant portions are about one-half the size of those in the U.S. They eat much slower than we do and linger longer at the table. In fact, in most restaurants or cafes, it’s really difficult to get your check because I assume they don’t want to appear to be rushing you. They use olive oil, not butter, and dressings and sauces are not as rich, and usually on the sparse side. Karen thinks they don’t use preservatives in their food or fatten their cattle with hormones, which she believes gets passed through to us. I was skeptical in the past, but she may be on to something. Suffice to say, they all walk a heck of a great deal more than we do, so one of the answers to a trimmer physique has to be getting out of our cars and going farther on foot.
Frankly, I was also a little nervous about going to Europe, what with the general European feeling about the war in Iraq. But, truthfully, I haven’t picked up any anti-Americanism. Iraq doesn’t appear to be much of a front-page issue with the Spanish. Of course, Barcelona is a very cosmopolitan city, with many tourists, and the Born area is sort of like SoHo or the East Village in New York, with hip little boutiques and restaurants, and young educated kids, so maybe we’re not getting a cross section of the country.
The dollar is kind of in the toilet-about $1.40 to one Euro-but, overall, the prices aren’t bad, about the same as Santa Monica. The food costs a little more in a good restaurant, but the wine is considerably less expensive and there are some excellent Spanish wines. Renting an apartment was a very good idea; it’s just a different experience than living in a hotel. You start going to the same place for breakfast, and into the local stores and people start saying hello, or hola. It was easier for Karen who speaks a serviceable Spanish. I have a tin ear for foreign languages, but generally sign language or pointing suffices and the Spanish are very agreeable and patient.
If you want a European visit in a very wonderful city, and don’t care to pay London or Paris prices, I’d recommend Barcelona.
P.S. There are loads of great guidebooks to Barcelona so you don’t need my advice on where to eat, but there are hundreds of great restaurants to choose from and some interesting trips within a few hours train ride.
P.P.S. A number of people have sent me e-mails about my mother’s passing and I’d like to thank you all for your kind words.