With the calm blue Mediterranean on my left, a Lebanese grill called Beirut on the right and Israeli radio emanating from my rental car’s speakers as I barreled down a posh seaside promenade toward a medieval castle, where else could I be but in beguiling Cyprus?
It’s the big Mediterranean island more exotic than Greece, not as far off as the Middle East and the original home of both Aphrodite and a cheese that refuses to melt called halloumi. From mythology to beaches warm enough for October swimming, this island nation is one of the most mesmerizing anywhere. Its location has made it coveted by empires ancient and more recent, too: the Phoenicians, Achaean Greeks, Romans, Alexander the Great, Venetians, British and more have at one time or another sunk their teeth into this tempting island treat. And frankly, who could blame them? In antiquity, pilgrims came from all parts to worship Aphrodite, who rode here in a seashell, and Cyprus was a stepping stone to the Holy Land during the Crusades. The British still maintain bases here. Here, centuries of history can land smack in the middle of your salad dish. This happened one recent, sultry night on the terrace of the Karatello Tavern in the bustling Cypriot town of Limassol, the island’s main port. There I was, in the dark shadow of the castle built by Guy de Lusignan in 1193 and the place where Richard the Lionheart married Berengaria of Navarre. The Karatello Salad had fried halloumi, orchard tomatoes and pomegranate seeds in a carob syrup vinaigrette. Foods of the Bible, updated most deliciously.
Because there are simply too many evocative traces of antiquity in Cyprus for me to list in this space, I will shift to a somewhat more sybaritic topic, instead: your best hotel bets. In Limassol, the busy and booming seaside city where I discovered that great Lebanese restaurant, I stayed in a comfortable sea view room at the St Raphael Resort (raphael.com.cy) a five-star family friendly hotel situated close to the ruins of ancient Amathous, one of the royal cities of Cyprus until around 300 B.C. and which you can visit today. With its beautiful pool area, restaurants and incredible breakfast buffet, the St Raphael is one of the finest resorts in the Mediterranean. On the edge of the resort you’ll find a separate eatery called the Happy Friar where you can enjoy some real authentic British-style fried fish and chips.
When the Crusaders passed through Cyprus they were on a mission and lately I have been on something of a mission, too, less holy but arguably more practical and that’s to support locally-based car rental companies. U.S. car rental companies have left me disappointed every time, and whatever they tell you, they consistently overcharge abroad. In Cyprus, where you do need a car to get around properly, book with Manos Car (facebook.com/manos.cars). You can call Marios at 35722511844 and tell him Anthony sent you. And yes, they have automatic cars, too.
After two days of exploring Limassol’s bustling and compact historic core, I decided it was time to get behind the wheel of my white automatic Toyota Yaris and ride the modern Cyprus highway to Larnaca, where the island’s main international airport is situated. I decided to overnight at the hotel everyone in Europe’s been talking about: the white-hot Radisson Blu Larnaca (radissonblu.com/en/hotel-larnaca). Larnaca is a charming seaside city famous as the home of the Church of St. Lazarus, but this bold new hotel is carrying it into the future. The view from my sleek private balcony over still and wide Larnaca Bay was mesmerizing. The levels of service: stellar. The breakfast buffet? The perfect intersection of quality and quantity and the perfect glass of iced Cyprus coffee, too, and everything totally fresh and absolutely delicious—and a variety of seating options so you can schmooze or keep to yourself—brilliant.
But that brings me to lunch. There’s a restaurant along Larnaca’s sunny seaside promenade called Monte Carlo (montecarlolarnaka.com) that serves some of the best grilled fish you will ever taste. Before that, snack on the kitchen’s swoon-worthy Cyprus olives which “swim” in a bowl of lemon juice, garlic and coriander.
Getting to Cyprus from the United States is a two-step affair. I recommend flying Virgin Atlantic to London and from there (or via Athens) a flight on Aegean, the excellent and award-winning Athens-based airline. They have a top-drawer business class offering too, with authentic Greek gourmet offerings. Visit en.aegeanair.com. For general tourist information on Cyprus, go to visitcyprus.com.