Munching on a delectable Tuna Carpaccio or Peekytoe Crabcakes is only part of the alchemy that is Granita. Years ago, its celebrated owners, Wolfgang Puck and Barbara Lazaroff, significantly raised the bar in fine-dining standards, achieving a culinary reputation people swarmed to. And still do.
One decade to the day after Granita first opened its doors, the restaurant is anticipating some 250 friends and well-wishers to make some noise and celebrate its 10th anniversary on Monday, at its original location in the Malibu Colony Plaza, from 6:30 p.m. to 11 p.m.
Created and designed by Lazaroff, a woman described by many as “driving and perfectionist” and “the woman behind the man,” Granita offers a brilliant visual feast that manages to integrate diverse, often pioneering works from world-class artisans into a unified experience.
“Of all the restaurants, Granita was the most difficult to build,” said Lazaroff, who peppers her dialogue with birthing metaphors to describe the intensity of launching a restaurant that includes the collaborative efforts of 120 American artisans–all with healthy egos–many of whom wanted center stage.
“[A restaurant] is like a child, it has to be well-rounded and develop and change with the times,” added Lazaroff, acknowledging that Granita took four years to build from concept to completion, to the tune of 3.1 million–which was reportedly fodder for discussion in many restaurant circles. “Now it would cost about 8 million,” she said.
“The restaurant is a great mix of craftsmanship and artistry,” said Puck, who confessed he has a picture of Lazaroff laying tile outside the restaurant, the hallmark of her work ethic.
Yet Lazaroff’s reputation in forging new inroads in architectural design has brought her both industry praise and scorn.
“When Granita first opened, there was a lot of criticism,” said Lazaroff. “The European magazines loved it, but American food critics said it looked like ‘The Little Mermaid.’ Throughout the years, I’ve been criticized for what I wore or how I applied my makeup. You get to a point where you can laugh about it.”
Preferring to credit others for Granita’s decade-long success, she said, “It’s a validation of the commitment of the staff and the community. It’s a testament to what we have overcome.”
Still, for those who know her, Lazaroff’s hands-on, meticulous dedication to detail is almost mythic among the restaurant’s staff and Granita’s long-time customers. Laura Gillis, Granita general manager and Ron Garcia run the restaurant with velvet precision.
“Like other pet projects–Chinois and Spago–Barbara would go literally without sleep for days,” said Gillis. “She would just design and stay during the night and make sure tile was being laid properly and that the lighting was coming in. She aimed high.”
Perhaps Lazaroff answered her critics upon winning the coveted “Platinum Circle Award” for design in 1991 for her collective body of work, but also largely for her design of Granita wherein she demonstrated her keen support of American artisans.
Jannis Swerman, communications director for Wolfgang Puck’s companies and former general manager of Granita, commented on other obstacles Lazaroff dealt with. “Barbara met the challenge of building a beach restaurant in a shopping center without a view, that gives the abstract feeling of being under water. Every texture you see is really all about movement.”
As to Granita’s longevity, Lazaroff, Puck and virtually all those interviewed repeatedly emphasized the aspect of staying connected to the community’s pulse and serving Malibu’s needs.
“If you want the community to be interested in you, you have to be interested in the community,” said Lazaroff. “You have to get involved in people’s lives.”
While few would argue that Granita’s stellar design helps make it “a destination restaurant,” the quality of food and renowned service is what many say keep bringing them back for more.
Said Puck, “Wherever we are, we cater to the locals. It’s very important because you have the same people coming in. So many [restaurants] come and go, especially the upscale restaurants, so you have to be much more competent. No matter where we are, we cater to the locals.”
Granita’s executive chef, Jennifer Naylor, who has worked with Puck and Lazaroff since 1990 and whose patrons say she “gives her food a delicacy and soul,” makes annual jaunts to Europe to work with some of the world’s top chefs, incorporating new inspiration into Granita’s menu. As to what the 10-year mark represents for her, Naylor said, “It’s a sense of accomplishment on all our parts, largely due to our great staff. It’s a celebration of all of the farmers, customers, vendors and locals who have supported us so much.”
Granita is a refuge for many local residents, visitors and celebrities to dine out without a scene. It’s not uncommon to see Annette Benning and Warren Beatty in attendance with their family, or John Cusack dining quietly with friends. Still, many locals say they feel Granita caters equally to them.
“Granita has been a lifesaver for me,” said Joanne Suydam, a Malibu resident who hails from Connecticut. “Someone told me that single folks could come sit in the bar and have dinner–it’s uncomfortable as a single woman to go out to a restaurant and sit at a table by yourself. So I started coming in and I met Ted.” (Ted Woody, wine director) “We became good friends. The food is fabulous and the people are great.”
Waiter Geno O’Neil, who has worked at Granita since the beginning, is clear as to why he remains. “Wolfgang doesn’t stay stagnant–he is as passionate about the business now as when I first met him. That’s very rare, especially for someone who gets that big. He still has a joy of cooking and making people happy. He caters to every whim.”
As to Pucks’ secret, if any, in sustaining pinnacle success, he offered, “You know, if you have the passion, it’s very easy to work hard and have dedication. Part of it is talent, part of it is tenacity. They all play a little part.”
Perhaps there’s no mystery as to the achievements of the Puck/Lazaroff team. Both convey a burning sense of commitment to out-do their personal best. On the future of Granita, Lazaroff said, “Our main focus has always been to satiate and court the Malibu community, giving them what they want and remaining flexible.” Puck summed up his passion in a way that will come as little surprise to most: “Restaurants are my life. I’d much rather do that than anything else. It’s who I am.”