Travel: Falling for Crete in Heraklion

Crete does first impressions either very badly or exceedingly well, depending on how you look at it. At first glance, which will likely be from an airplane window or the wind-swept deck of a ferry boat, the dragon-backed mountains will astound you because it seems like that is all there is. So, it would appear that you have entered a sort of Olympian landscape, sculpted by the same violent forces that created Santorini, whose Minoan ruins are linked to those of Crete. At second glance you may notice, at the cramped airport in Heraklion or aboard your boat, European holidaymakers—lots of them—giving you the false impression that you are about to join in on a scripted travel experience such as you might expect in Mykonos or Capri. 

Wrong. Those littler islands can’t absorb the tourist hordes without compromising whatever their essence used to be. Crete can. First of all, it’s humongous as Mediterranean islands go, stretching 160 miles end to end, and those Teutonic sun-chasers cling to the package holiday resorts on the north coast. Secondly, the Cretan character will not be compromised by anyone or anything. Given this fact, it’s a darn good thing the Cretans are so hospitable. It’s not something that’s coached, either; it’s innate and a deeply attractive counterpoint to those unnervingly wild landscapes. We’re talking peaks so high and gorges so deep that according to Greek mythology, the commander of the gods, Zeus, was born here. It’s easy to believe: Driving along some empty roads on Crete’s south side, I felt more on the other side of the known world than I did in Iceland.

I arrived by sea, thanks to a modern Seajets ferry, which departed the port of Piraeus. My first mission was to explore Heraklion, the biggest city. It’s named for Hercules and its historic center is enclosed by the original Venetian fortifications (Venice ruled Crete for nearly four centuries; rather sweetly, they called it Candia). Most people come to make a pit stop at the archaeological museum, which showcases the exquisite Minoan relics uncovered at Knossos outside of town. But coming to Heraklion for a museum and leaving is like going to New York for MoMA and omitting the rest of Manhattan. A meal at Peskesi is a must for the best in Cretan cuisine (until you’ve tasted Cretan tomatoes, you haven’t tasted tomatoes). Of course, if you stay at the Galaxy Hotel and partake in their stupendous buffet breakfast, which uses locally sourced products, you might just want to hang out at the hotel all day long. And why not? They have the best hotel swimming pool in the city and stylish guestrooms, including eco-friendly Pure rooms. No wonder it’s the preferred Cretan perch of Greek Prime Minister Alexis Tsipras, who checked in as I was jumping into my perky Citroen, rented with a great local company called AutoCandia. 

Now, it’s only three years of driving in the Middle East that could have prepared me for driving in Heraklion. The city is ancient, vibrant and essential, but do not go motoring there unless you’re making a beeline for a place of wonder beyond reason such as Matala. It’s a very small town on the south side of the island, which fell onto the map in the 1970s as magnet for hippies who hung out in the sea caves above a translucent blue sea. But you should hang out at Scala, a restaurant above the water that serves some of the best seafood anywhere. No Myconian pretension here, just the salt of the sea and a handful of hideaway guestrooms, too. Celebrities such as—well, no, I’m not here to name stars, although I should mention a showstopper of an ancient site before you reach Matala. It’s the ruins of the Minoan palace of Faistos and frankly, comparing Faistos to Knossos is like comparing the music of Michael Jackson to that of Lionel Ritchie. Both had hits, but only one is a superstar.

While Cretan cities like Heraklion are active all year long, places along the coast do tend to power down about now. But in October, the best resort in the south of Crete still welcomes guests. It’s called Irini Mare and is located along a hauntingly beautiful stretch of coastline that extends in either direction from the tourist enclave of Agia Galini. This is a family-owned hotel—you can tell by the attention to detail and warmth of the staff. Chef Spiros is the mastermind behind a daily breakfast and dinner buffet spotlighting local flavors. The olive oil, pomegranates and oranges come from trees on the property. 

The newer rooms feature balconies that are open to the cobalt blue sea and the islets of Paximadia (locals call it Elephantaki). The furniture was designed in Heraklion and the pillow-top mattresses are by a Greek company called Greco-Strom. At night, the only sound you hear is the rustling of leaves on the olive trees; the scent of the night flower will find you. This location may be remote, but it is known. It’s not too soon, then, to think about booking a stay at Irini Mare for when the resort reopens, along with the Cretan wildflowers, in spring. 

Visit galaxy-hotel.com and irinimare.com.