Malibu: Beyond the Beach

This is the first article in a four-part series on recreation in the Santa Monica Mountains.

While Malibu is best known for its 27 miles of beautiful coastline, the mountains that meet the ocean are home to a 500-mile public trail system that provides ample opportunities for every level of hiking enthusiast. This well-maintained trail network runs through canyons, up mountainsides and along coastlines offering an incredible amount of variety — from spectacular views to caves and waterfalls. Called the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area, the parklands are run by federal, state and local agencies and, combined, create a massive mountain playground for hikers, bikers, runners and equestrians. 

Before heading out into the wilderness, first check out nps.gov/samo for a comprehensive overview of the trail system, which includes maps, facility and parking information, and other helpful hints. Better yet, a trip to the Santa Monica Mountains Interagency Visitor Center is well worth the effort, especially with kids. This charming center, located at the intersection of Malibu Canyon Road and Mulholland Highway inside the 533-acre King Gillette Ranch, is not only a great source for maps and brochures; it also boasts dozens of interactive exhibits that cover everything from local wildlife to the region’s history. In addition, a small auditorium plays informational videos about the Santa Monica Mountains, and there is a small gift shop on the premises.

Now armed with the necessary information, it’s time to grab the backpack and go. The following hikes are a few highlights from the 23 parks, starting with the headliner, the Backbone Trail. (Unless indicated otherwise, the following trails allow leashed dogs.)

The Backbone Trail (BBT)

This ridgeline trail has been a labor of love for the past 50 years, cobbled together with public lands and the purchase of private lands, and now stretches 67 miles from Point Mugu State Park to Will Rogers State Historic Park. The BBT is not yet available for thru-hiking because of the lack of camping facilities, but it can certainly be tackled in pieces. In Malibu, there are seven trailheads that offer parking, making it easy for hikers to take two cars, parking at either end of a section. For example, for a five-mile hike, park one car at the Kanan Trailhead and head back to the Encinal Trailhead with the other car to start. Or, for a shorter jaunt, it’s only 2.2 miles from Kanan to the Latigo Trailhead. With two cars it’s easy to tailor the perfect hike. Going it with one car for an out-and-back hike, however, is still worth it. Much of the BBT features stunning 360-degree views from the ridge with rolling terrain that dips down through chaparral-covered hills and creek beds in between. The terrain itself is moderate and the difficulty level largely depends on the length of the hike. Because the trail passes through several parks, different regulations may apply when it comes to dogs, horses and bikes — so check ahead at the website to pick a route.

nps.gov/samo/planyourvisit/backbonetrail.htm

Circle X Ranch 

This hike has it all: Views, climbing, sandstone rock formations, a coastal Mediterranean ecosystem and the tallest peak in the Santa Monica Mountains — the Sandstone Peak, at 3,111 feet. To soak it all in, take the Mishe Mokwa Trail to Split Rock and then follow the Backbone Trail to Sandstone Peak. As if the 360-degree views and the diverse plant and animal life weren’t enough, the rock formations lend an otherworldly feel to the area — be sure to check out the Balanced Rock above the Echo Cliffs. 

The entire hike is between six and seven miles depending on the route. Shorter hikes from the parking area are available. The Sandstone Peak Trailhead is six-plus miles up Yerba Buena. 

nps.gov/samo/planyourvisit/circlexranch.htm

Charmlee Wilderness Park 

This 532-acre park is a hidden gem that includes incredible ocean views, rolling meadows, easy hiking trails and picnic areas. Located four miles up Encinal Canyon Road, Charmlee is an easy romp that offers huge biodiversity, with the added bonus of not being overly crowded on weekends. There is a $4 fee to use the park, which is paid in the parking area. 

nps.gov/samo/planyourvisit/charmleewilderness.htm

Solstice Canyon

Located a quarter mile from the Pacific Coast Highway (PCH) up Corral Canyon Road, Solstice Canyon offers something for everyone. An easy hike along an abandoned driveway/road leads to the ruins of a 1950s ranch, with a bonus waterfall tucked behind it. For a heartier walk, follow the Rising Sun Trail up to the ridge to enjoy majestic views of the Pacific. The trail winds back down to the ranch for a 2.6-mile loop. At the ranch, the Sostomo Trail and Deer Valley split off for a more difficult 3.9-mile loop. 

nps.gov/samo/planyourvisit/solsticecanyon.htm

Inspiration in the Santa Monica Mountains

The sandstone formations along the Mishe Mokwa and Backbone Trails at Circle X Ranch dominate the Mediterranean landscape.

Charmlee Wilderness Park boasts incredible views of the ocean from high up in a meadow.

The Santa Monica Mountains Interagency Visitor Center, housed in the old stable at the King Gillette Ranch, is a great way to get educated about the recreational opportunities from the mountains to the ocean.

The view of the Pacific from the Rising Sun Trail in Solstice Canyon