Temecula’s coming of age

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A hot-air balloon ride offers high and low aerial views of the Temecula landscape, including orchards, vineyards and wineries. Photo by Janice Kleinschmidt

A hundred miles southeast of Malibu, Southern California’s emerging wine country struts its stuff.

By Janice Kleinschmidt / Special to The Malibu Times

The 2008 film “Bottle Shock” recounted the story of how Napa surprised the world when its wines beat French wines in the 1978 Paris blind tasting. Temecula enjoyed its own “Paris” moment when Woodworth Vineyard’s inaugural pinot noir beat more than 300 other labels from established, cool-climate pinot turf (Northern California, Oregon, New Zealand) to be among 64 competitors and garnered a third-place finish in the Pinot Noir Summit last month in San Francisco.

“I was shocked and pleased,” Summit organizer Barbara Drady said. “Based on how good the wine is, the [Temecula Valley] appellation is a surprise.”

Marlene and Gary Woodworth are among the microwinery newbies showcasing their winemaking talent at The Collective tasting room in Old Town Temecula. Their early success hints at the growing respect the area is earning for producing quality wines, as well as diversity. Viognier, rousanne, cabernet franc, nebbiolo and other varietals join the ranks of chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, merlot and cabernet sauvignon as liquid gold (and red). In March, a barrel-sampling weekend sold out with 1,400 tickets holders looking for the next great wine.

In 1968, Vincenzo and Audrey Cilurzo planted Temecula’s first commercial grapes. The couple, who authored a pictorial history titled Temecula Wine Country, witnessed much of the growth before they retired.

“Audrey could sit in the tasting room and read a whole book and five people would come in. That would be a big day,” Vincenzo said of their early days. “When we sold [the winery in 2004], we were getting over 1,000 people a week. Wilson Creek Winery now gets 1,000 or more in a day.”

Even with a mere four years under his belt in Temecula wine country, Louis Darwish recognizes the area’s potential. The owner of Mount Palomar Winery has county-approved plans to build a hotel, vineyard estate home lots, timeshares, villas, retail space, a wedding chapel, a 2,000-bottle wine cave and more in the next two years. Darwish is not alone; others winery owners have plans to build or expand. “Coming soon” signs dot the landscape.

While vineyards may be the area’s main tourist draw (wineries number 35 and counting), a stroll through Old Town Temecula, especially on a weekend night, proves the Old West is still alive and kicking. Yes, there are wine tasting rooms along the main drag (Front Street) and side streets (easily navigable, without having to walk more than a block in either direction of Front Street). But the real charm lies in eclectic shopping and dining options.

Look for antiques and rustic furniture made from hickory. Smell all things lavender for bed, bath and home. Taste flavored olive oils, cheese and jerky. Flip through used and collectible vinyl albums and 45s at Old Town Records. Savor burgers, Mediterranean dishes and Mexican cuisine along with the history. The Bank, one of the Old Town’s Mexican restaurants, bears the distinction of being the site of Riverside County’s first bank robbery in Aug. 30, 1930; the thief escaped with $2,000, but was caught two miles away.

Don’t miss the Saturday morning farmers’ market in the parking lot behind Soro’s Mediterranean Grill. In addition to standard fresh fruits, vegetables and flowers, look for exotic offerings such as jujubes, sometimes called a Chinese date, sapote, a custardy Mexican apple, cherimoya, loquat and more. Grab a blue crab burrito or made-to-order crêpe. Then head to Front Street and catch a costumed gunfight, staged twice on Saturdays.

There are plenty of ways to take in the beauty of the rolling hills, including wine shuttles that allow you to gawk at the vineyards between tasting stops. If you have kids in tow, consider a horseback ride along wine country trails. One of the best ways to get the lay of the land is with one of the area’s hot-air balloon companies; there’s nothing quite like floating over orchards and vineyards and then keeping the relaxed feeling on terra firma with sparkling wine and an alfresco gourmet breakfast.

Accommodations are easy to find, from thrifty to the all-villa South Coast Winery Resort & Spa, where your room shares no common walls or floor/ceiling and comes with a private patio among vineyards. Jacuzzis, fireplaces and a complimentary bottle of wine complete the in-room experience. If you wake up wishing you’d gone easier on wine tasting, visit the resort’s GrapeSeed Spa and ask for the Quick Fix Hangover Bliss Facial.

Upcoming annual events include the Temecula Wine and Music Festival (April 30) at Vail Lake Resort, Western Days (May 21-22) in Old Town, Temecula Valley Balloon & Wine Festival (June 3-5) at Lake Skinner and Street Painting Festival (June 24-26) in Old Town. Next month, Thornton Winery enters its 22nd season of Champagne Jazz, featuring internationally known musicians. Most any summer weekend, you’ll find free live music setting the ideal wine-tasting ambiance. But be sure to mark your post-summer calendar for fall, when you’ll want to return for harvest celebrations.