Calabasas’ Saddle Peak Lodge knows the secret to memorable dining.
By Kim Devore / Staff Writer
There’s no doubt about it, the crazy summer season in Malibu is officially underway. The beach crowds, the bumper-to-bumper traffic, the noisy Harleys, the heat. But just a few miles up Malibu Canyon is a tranquil oasis that’s a world away.
Saddle Peak Lodge is a place that’s sure to please no matter what the season. The leafy upper terrace is perfect for a delicious brunch in summer. The dining room is a cozy place to sit by a crackling fire in the winter. It’s a favorite setting for a wedding, backdrop for a birthday party and couldn’t be more romantic for a first date.
There are several special ingredients that make Saddle Peak a standout, starting with first impressions. “There is no place like it,” says owner Ann Ehringer, “not in this part of the country.” That much is true. From the moment you enter the rustic confines filled with its showy antlers, animal trophies, butter soft leather stools, out-of-print books and bent willow furniture, you have left California and entered another state, or at least another time.
Chef Mark Murillo serves the restaurant’s reputation well with his hearty and imaginative fare. If you’re game for game, this is the place to be and, besides, what would be more appropriate when you’re sitting in a hunting lodge sharing space with a stuffed badger or water buffalo? He’ll whip up one of his signature dishes “on the range” using a mix of mesquite charcoal and mesquite wood and let you savor the flavor of the American frontier. Other memorable meals include grilled Free Range Guinea Hen paired with an English pea risotto, Roasted Elk Tenderloin with Jerusalem artichokes, Buffalo Lion with creamed spinach and béarnaise sauce or oven roasted Broad Leaf Venison Rack with red bliss mashed potatoes and pear sauce. For the new, adventurous or indecisive, Chef Mark offers a game tasting platter, which lets you sample a little of this and a bite of that.
Serious food calls for serious wine and Saddle Peak’s affable General Manager Iain Walling has been putting together a first-rate wine list, which will feature many unique and hard-to-get California vintages.
But first things first. For appetizers, the puff pastry stuffed with smoked duck, wild cremini, oyster and shiitake mushrooms is a great way to get you in the mood; but light eaters beware, this dish is extremely filling. You might consider sharing this one with your tablemates or opt for the Fiji Apple Salad topped with St. Agur blue cheese and toasted pecans.
While Saddle Peak has its roots in the wild. There are choices to suit every appetite and dietary preference. “People tend to think of us only as game,” Ehringer explains,” but there’s so much more than that.”
In addition to a satisfying plate of Buffalo Short Rib Osso Bucco, you’ll find Diver Scallops and Wild Scottish Salmon for fish lovers. The Mascarpone and Mushroom Ravioli and Organic Butternut Squash Soup are good choices for vegans in the crowd.
But no matter where your taste may take you, Saddle Peak is a wonderful walk on the wild side.
The Saddle Peak Lodge is located at 419 Cold Canyon Road in Calabasas. The phone number is 818.222.3888.