
Why Taverna Tony makes Malibu feel at home.
By Kim Devore / Staff Writer
From Granita to Spumoni to Georgio, Malibu restaurants come and go, but there’s one with plenty of staying power-that bustling Greek eatery on the corner of Cross Creek Road and Civic Center Way. If you want to know what makes Taverna Tony such a success, you needn’t look any further than the front door where Tony Koursaris is there to greet you seven days (and nights) a week.
I’ve often wondered if Tony secretly lives at the restaurant (no) or has an identical twin (he doesn’t), because in the decade or so I’ve been frequenting his fine establishment, I can only recall one time when he wasn’t there keeping the place running like a well oiled machine.
“I love what I do,” Koursaris said. “As a result, I’m here all the time.”
Presence is a plus, but it isn’t the only reason why Tony’s is one of Malibu’s best-loved hangs.
“I try to keep it as real, simple and down to earth as possible,” he explained. “Nothing is fake here, not the atmosphere, not the prices, not the food.”
And with delectable dishes like Moussaka delivered on platters the size of your head, you can’t complain about the portions either.
Then there’s the fun factor, Tony’s talented trio plays toe-tapping tunes seven nights a week and he shakes things up with belly dancing on Friday and Saturday nights.
Another sure sign of an establishment with its act together? Familiar faces who stay on year after year. From the chef to the servers to the iconic waiter who calls himself “The Captain,” Tony’s crew has been with him since the beginning.
A native of the Greek island of Corfu, Koursaris got an early start in the business, opening and operating eateries in cities like London and Paris. In the early ’80s, he made his way to Houston. But when the oil business went bust, Tony went looking for a new place to hang his professional pots and pans.
As luck would have it, he landed in Malibu where the old Adobe restaurant was up for grabs. The timing was perfect and so was the classic, white stucco building, which reminded him of the Mediterranean architecture he knew so well.
Tony brought in decorative touches from his native Greece as well as hand-painted plates from his personal kitchen. He created a sunny, flower-filled patio, put together a mouth-watering menu of Greek treats, and was ready to light up the saganaki and let the ouzo flow.
Today, Tony’s is tops not just in Malibu but brings in fans from as far away as Santa Barbara and Beverly Hills.
“I offer something that’s different,” he explained. “I think people will travel for something that’s unique and one-of-a kind. I work very hard to give them their money’s worth.”
So while there are many changes about to take place in this neck of the woods, it’s reassuring to know that Tony’s is not one of them. After more than 12 years, Tony Koursaris remains one of the most popular guys in town and that’s something he doesn’t take for granted.
“I owe a lot to the people of Malibu. They can go anywhere and they come here. I love them and they love me back.”
Perhaps it’s not just Tony that we love. It might be what he represents.
“It’s the Zorba spirit,” he said. “Here we celebrate life.”
Opah!