Vital Zuman Organic Farm in Malibu, also known as Fig Tree Ranch, may well be the longest running organic farm stand in California. Originally settled by George and Alice Cunningham nearly 50 years ago, George planted the fig trees for erosion control, and was willing to experiment with several different varieties. Alice always kept a small vegetable garden of her own, which she still tends today, having recently celebrated her 90th birthday.
This is the place I have been coming to since 1986 to buy the best figs around, and to get a fix of farm life in the metropolis. I’ve always been awed by the seemingly unlimited varieties of figs I’ve found here over the years.
Just when I thought there were basically brown figs and green figs, I discovered one gorgeous specimen that is washed with pale chartreuse and yellow stripes on the outside, and deep orchidy purple on the inside. Fig Tree Ranch has offered other marvels as well-intense tiny red currant tomatoes rarely seen in the days before heirlooms; limes that look like tangerines, guavas and many fruit jams.
Today the farm is owned and operated by Alan George Cunningham, who came back to Malibu seven years ago, shortly before his father’s passing to help his parents with the family’s longstanding tradition of growing and selling organic figs. Located on Pacific Coast Highway just south of Zuma Beach, Vital Zuman takes its name from the Chumash word, “Zuma,” meaning “abundance.”
Vital abundance is a very apt way to describe the organic farm, especially in late summer when fig season is at its peak. Vital Zuman’s vital vision is simple: grow food, feed the people and connect with the community. Aside from changing the name of the ranch, Alan runs the farm the “old fashioned way” much as his parents did. A few things are different since he took over, however. Alan has created the first certified organic farm in Malibu, and instead of producing primarily summer crops, Vital Zuman plants, cultivates, harvests and delivers food 52 weeks of the year.
Cunningham is working on doubling the number of fig trees on the property, propagating from root shoots or “suckers” as they’re sometimes called.
“It is an act of faith,” says Cunningham, “because they drop all their leaves and look completely dead,” but indeed, nearly nine out of 10 come back.
He’s noticed that the fig trees at Vital Zuman have a life span of about 40 years, but the trees can be cut down and the stumps buried with soil to alternatively regenerate the orchard.
Cunningham is also working to make a stronger connection between the farm and the community. He challenges the image of the farmer as an outsider.
To this end Vital Zuman Organic Farm comes to six local farmers markets, not only a place to sell produce, but an amazing venue to connect with friends, neighbors and local businesses to share information and exchange ideas.
In some cases Cunningham brings the community to the farm. As co-founder of the Vital Zuman Project with the Santa Monica School Garden and Farmer’s Market Salad Bar Programs, students plant, cultivate and harvest a portion of the property. Students grow everything from chard to beets and carrots, as well as a radiant cinnamon romaine lettuce among other delicacies. The farm also has an active volunteer exchange, offering room and board (usually a tent or trailer) in exchange for six hours of work on the farm each day. Volunteers often take what they learn about organic farming back to their communities to further spread the wealth, as it were. Vital Zuman Organic Farm houses an amphitheater and soundstage, and periodically hosts public events, presenting musicians, speakers and workshops on organic farming.
Coming up on Sunday, September 29th, Vital Zuman kicks off the First Annual Malibu Organic Fig Festival.