This was my first trip back to Fiji since tropical cyclone Winston devastated much of this South Pacific island nation in early 2016. The extent of the destruction and impact on the country’s tourism industry, so vital to the Fijian economy, wasn’t fully reported at the time — partly because hoteliers didn’t want to deter visitors, but mostly due to the resilience of the Fijian people who kept on smiling, even when they had lost everything. They worked tirelessly to rebuild their country, believing that Fiji would rebound stronger than ever.
I sat down with Fijian friends, management and staff at the newly reopened Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort in Savusavu to hear firsthand what it was like when Winston hit and learn about the extraordinary recovery.
The resort was a week away from completing extensive and expensive improvements, so no guests were staying when Winston pounded Savusavu on February 20, 2016. Operations manager Helen Regan had been monitoring the storm and knew it was going to be a big one. A veteran of many tropical cyclones, most of which veer off before landfall, Regan had a bad feeling about this one. But nothing could have prepared her for the impact of the most powerful cyclone ever recorded in the Southern Hemisphere.
“The bay that’s usually so calm was like a pot of boiling water that didn’t stop bubbling for seven hours. Ten-meter tidal waves swept through the main buildings, but the basic structure stayed up, as did the bures (wood and straw cabins). We lost the jetty — that went quickly. And the roads to the resort were swept away. It was like a war zone with debris and fallen trees everywhere. All communication was lost for days. We had to cut ourselves out of here. I sent staff to help the neighbors. We had no water or power for six weeks. The generators couldn’t be turned on because the conductors were damaged. We had large fish washed up on the beach. The stench was awful. One man recalled running up a hill with his son to escape a tidal wave. He looked back to see his house following him,” Regan described.
Incredibly, no lives were lost in Savusavu. There were some injuries and all the crops were destroyed. New seedlings took months to grow.
Max Cross, executive director of the Naqaqa Giving Foundation — an American-based nonprofit that helps people in remote Fijian villages — said, “The people in Fiji don’t wait for others to come and help. The morning after that tremendous destruction, everyone began cleaning up the astounding mess. This began at first light on the day after — and when the whole community acts as one, when those capable fix what they can in their small area, an incredible amount is achieved in a short time. It is remarkable and it’s inspiring. I’m so impressed by seeing people who have lost their home and have been forced to live with another family laughing and singing as they repair their community or their workplace. It was a very challenging time but people didn’t moan, they were proactive and you can see the results.”
Hotels in Savusavu were closed for months. Some businesses didn’t survive and not all were insured. Fortunately, Cousteau was covered, which enabled it to perform a multimillion-dollar renovation that took eight months. And the visitors are already returning; Cousteau is almost fully booked again.
“Fiji still has some of the finest diving waters in the world and its famed soft coral,” Bart Simpson, general manager of the Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort, said. “We’ve built an artificial reef that’s flourishing. Our resort is even better than before. We’ve planted 14,000 new plants. Forty percent of the fresh produce we use comes from our own gardens; the rest is locally sourced. Our commitment is to support the amazing community here in Savusavu.”
Winston was tough. Fijians are tougher.
The country’s joy at winning its first Olympic medal — a gold in Brazil, in the rugby sevens — reverberated around the world and sent a message: Fiji is back.
Flights to Savusavu from Los Angeles cost around $1500 for a round trip. For more information about accommodation in Savusavu, Fiji: fiji-savusavu.com and fijiresort.com.
