Peeling back the ‘French Paradox’
When I picked up the latest doorstop tome from Jean Auel’s best-selling “Clan of the Cave Bear” series, I discovered the plucky Paleolithic heroine, Ayla, and her handsome Cro-Magnon lover had abandoned the icy tundra for the fruited plains of Bordeaux, where-sure enough-they savored the fermented juice of crushed grapes with robust meals of roasted venison and simple salads of spring greens. It is proof of humanity’s native wisdom that Auel’s meticulous archeological research uncovered evidence that the French Paradox has existed for 20,000 years.
“French Paradox?” A medical curiosity came to the attention of cardiologists 30 years ago-somehow, Gauloise-sucking, foie gras munching, overweight and underlabored Frenchmen were living longer and healthier lives than nonsmoking,
lean-cuisine dining American joggers. Why? The secret lies in the vine. Most particularly, it lies in the skin of grapes crushed to make red wine. Although there are salubrious benefits associated with white wine, nothing compares to the blood protection afforded by a daily glass or two of robust red wine.
Last December, the scientific journal, “Nature,” reported the cause behind the effect. Winemakers know that grape skins contain polyphenols, antifungal agents, but what they couldn’t know was that these polyphenols inhibit production of endothelin-1, a peptide the body needs to develop arteriosclerosis, constriction of the arteries. Without endolthelin-1, blood flows freely reducing the risk of heart attack, stroke and high blood pressure. The most potent protective wines tested by the researchers at the William Harvey Institute in London were Cabernet Sauvignons.
Dear Friends, we live in Cabernet country and there’s a lovely vineyard with excellent, highly rated wines right up on Kanan-Rosenthal. In a home built with all the refinement and traditional respect for the land found in France’s best chateaux, Rosenthal weds fine art with the refined art of Burgundian winemaking. Under winemaker Christian Rougenant, 24 acres are cultivated with their own appellation, “Malibu Newton Canyon.” The 1999 Chardonnay was a light, crisp, almost melon-y wine with the barest hint of oak, crafted in California’s modern style. The merlot was a luscious plum-y, almost thick ruby red wine with 14.1 percent alcohol and a light, black cherry aftertaste. The Cab was a classic with anise and black currant flavors, rested for two years on French oak. Private tours are available by reservation. Call 310.899.8900 ext. 282.
COQ AU VIN
If you have most of a bottle that’s good, but not quite good enough to drink, try this adaptation from “The Dean & Deluca Cookbook”
Serves 4
1 4-pound chicken, cut into 8 pieces
2 dozen pearl onions
8 slices bacon, chopped
2 garlic cloves, sliced
1 medium brown onion, sliced
4 large carrots, sliced
2 tsp. salt
2 tbs. sugar
1/ 2 tsp. ground pepper
1/3 cup cognac
1 tsp. herbes de Provence*
1 bay leaf
4 cloves
3-1/2 cups fruity red wine
1 tbs. tomato paste
3/4-stick butter
1 pound fresh mushrooms, quartered
2 tbs. flour
1/ 4 cup chopped Italian parsley
1. Scald pearl onions in boiling water. Remove, peel off the skins.
2. In a deep heavy skillet, saut bacon until crispy. Remove. Do not drain pan. Saut chicken until golden brown. Remove and set aside. Drain off all but 3 tablespoons of fat.
3. Add garlic, brown onion, 1 cup of carrots, 1 teaspoon of salt, 1 teaspoon of sugar and pepper. Saut until lightly caramelized. Reduce heat to low and remove most of the fat from the pan.
4. Return chicken to the pan and pour in the cognac. Carefully, light it and gently toss the chicken in the flames.
5. When the flames have subsided, add parsley stems, herbes de Provence, bay leaf, cloves, tomato paste, remaining salt and wine. Bring to a boil, scraping the bottom of the pan, cover and cook gently for 12 minutes until breasts are cooked through and remove them. Cook the dark meat another 8 minutes before removing.
6. Strain the pan liquid, pressing down on solids to extract as much sauce as possible. Degrease and return to the pan. Over high heat, reduce until thickened slightly-about 10 minutes.
7. In another pan, melt two tablespoons of butter. Add pearl onions, remaining sugar and carrots. Toss to glaze with color, then add water to cover. Braise until all the water is evaporated and vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes.
8. Melt 2 tablespoons butter over high heat and saut mushrooms until golden. (Don’t overcrowd the pan or you’ll steam the mushrooms). Set aside.
9. Make a roux-a smooth paste of butter kneaded with flour. Bring the wine sauce to a boil and gradually whisk in the roux. Stir until the sauce reaches the correct consistency- about 5 minutes. Add chicken, bacon, carrots, onions and mushrooms and reheat 5 minutes.
10. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve with salad and fresh bread.
Tips from the table: Rod Campbell suggests a fresh baguette from a tiny, authentically French bakery he found, Le Pain du Jour, on Pico at Lincoln in Santa Monica. While you’re there, try their olive bread-it’s the best!
* If herbes de Provence is unavailable, use a pinch each of thyme, tarragon and marjoram. A few zips of orange zest spices up this dish nicely.