There’s a new chef in town, and he’s cooking up some new treats at an old favorite, Tra di Noi Ristorante at the Malibu Country Mart.
Francesco Valesco joined the Italian eatery in October of last year, where he’s introduced what he calls new techniques in Italian cuisine.
Valesco is of Chilean descent, but grew up in Milan, Italy, where he learned from the best. He’s cooked for the Michelin star-rated Torre di Saracino in Naples and Gustavino in Florence.
But he got his start at a salsa disco, no less, that his brother operated in Milan. Valesco would cook banquet dinners at the disco, where the most popular dish was pasta alla olio. Valesco did attend culinary school, but is mostly self-taught, learning on the job. And one of the most important things he has learned is that fresh and organic is best.
Tra di Noi owner Tarcisio Mosconi met Valesco in Florence when he was at Gustavino. The chef was at Il Grano in West Los Angeles before coming to Malibu.
During a recent visit to Tra di Noi, the chef served a five-course tasting menu showcasing new dishes at the restaurant. First on the list was Crudo di Mare, with big-eye tuna and yellow tail in a lemoncello sauce served with fresh vegetables from the Santa Monica Farmers’ Market. Next came a filet of Dover sole in a saffron sauce served with organic beets. One of the most delicious and unique dishes served was calamari (which was from Zuma Beach) nestled on a bed of black rice, which topped fresh pureed peas. Another favorite was the potato leek ravioli with black truffle that the chef personally shaved. Roasted turbot in a rosemary sauce with prawns and organic vegetables was a delight as well.
A fresh berry cup with lemoncello, raspberry sorbet and cream cleansed the palate for the warm Panatone (bread pudding) and divinely rich chocolate cake topped with Nutella that finished the meal.
Old timers who fear losing their favorite dishes at Tra di Noi need not worry. Only 35 percent of the menu has changed, and will change according to what’s in season. And any dish that is no longer on the menu can still be ordered, Valesco said.
The charm and warmth of the restaurant always remains, with Mosconi usually on hand to greet diners. Combined with the talents of chef Valesco and his insistence on the freshest and best ingredients, the eatery remains top on the list of best restaurants in Malibu.
Tra di Noi is open noon to 10 p.m. daily. It is located at 3835 Cross Creek Rd.; 310.456.0169.