Au revoir Paris, it’s a wrap

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    Finding a really good meal in a Parisian restaurant is definitely not a given, regardless of price. Though the French treasure their food, as well as savoring it, there are certain limitations. If you think you must have gourmet vegetarian, get over it. I ate more meat in four weeks than in the last four years.

    Organic products–called biologique–are available in some markets, and in very few restaurants. But locally grown fresh fruit and vegetables are sold everywhere and are excellent, at least in summer.

    It is possible to find in almost every block a good fromagerie for French cheeses, a gourmet shop for p…t and other delicacies, a charcuterie (for those who still eat sausage and such in this year of bovine diseases), a boulangerie for bread and a patisserie for desserts, and have a feast in your hotel room with a bottle of Bordeaux.

    A huge fan of French pastry, I sampled about four dozen; none were sad or soggy. However, those that sold both bread and desserts were usually good at one or the other but not both. That said, I never had a fruit or almond tart that wasn’t delicious.

    If you haven’t time to try them all, look for the sign that simply says Paul. The bakery company founded in the 1800s now has many outlets, all with a small cafe where you can enjoy your pastry (some also serve quiche and salad) with excellent tea or coffee. French coffee is not my favorite (Swiss and Italian espresso are), so I recommend ordering cafe creme, indistinguishable from traditional cafe au lait, to soften that burned taste.

    After several forgettable meals, we found two superb restaurants on our last two nights in Paris. Well, one we had found in 1995 but it changed hands about four years ago. In a quaint old building on the edge of a small square in the Marais District near Place des Vosges, Les Bougresses serves a varied menu, fairly priced, and is as popular with locals now as it was when it featured only duck. Two entrees: artichoke with warm vinaigrette and croustillant de chevre frais, goat cheese in warm pastry with tomato, were 40F each (about 7.30F to 7.50F to $1); Pappillotte de Saumon Jardiniere des Legumes, salmon fillet baked in foil (not parchment) with fresh vegetables, 85F ; Demi Magret de Canard, slices of roast duck in a delicate brown sauce, 90F; two Tarte Fine Tiede aux Pommes, warm apple tarts, 38F each; and a half bottle of the house red wine at 50F brought the total for two to 381F, less than $50.

    Our other favorite restaurant was Le Chantecler, at 42 Place du Marche Saint-Honore, Paris 1, around the corner from Brentano’s English bookstore and opposite the huge glass design center. One aperitif, Pastis, 30F; one half bottle Chateau de Bel Air Bordeaux, 100F; one Evian water, 25F; one entree Cassolette d’escargots de Bougogne en croute, a l’ail doux, snails cooked in garlic wrapped in warm flaky pastry, 70F. For the main course, the house specialty, Eventail de Magret de Canard aux poire, perfectly sauteed slices of duck arranged around a pear, 95F; and the best apple tart on the planet, delicate crust served warm with a tiny dollop of vanilla ice cream and apricot glaze drizzled around the edge, 45F. Formidable! Total for two was 460F. Reservations: 01.42.61.68.48. We found reservations were not necessary before about 8 p.m. but most places fill up by about 9 p.m.

    Before you go to Paris, buy Rick Steve’s Paris guidebook–it’s cheaper here and is usually sold out at Brentano’s. His “France, Belgium & The Netherlands” (Avalon Travel) is also useful for excursions outside Paris.

    Although we stayed with friends, I checked out various hotels. If you are dying to stay on the Left Bank (it’s not what it used to be but still has a bustling night life), try Hotel Saint-Andre-des-Arts in the Latin Quarter at Saint-Germain-des-Pres. Rates: Double with bath 494F, single with bath 337F – 397F, tax 3F per person. Many restaurants just steps away, pubs and jazz clubs nearby. 66 rue Saint-Andre-des-Arts, 75006 Paris, phone: 01.43.26.96.16.

    For a quieter, safer and more French area, it’s hard to beat the Rue Cler neighborhood in the 7th arrondissement, a short walk to the Eiffel Tour, the Muse D’Orsay, Rodin Museum and the Park du Champ de Mars. Two reasonably priced hotels in this area are Hotel Leveque (single 300F, double 400F – 500F) at 29 rue Cler, phone: 01.47 05.49.15, www.hotel-leveque.com, e-mail: info@hotelleveque.com, and Hotel du Champ de Mars, at 7 rue Champ de Mars1 would be my first choice for its charming, Provence-style rooms. English is spoken here (single 400F, double 440F – 470F), phone: 01.45.51.64.36, www.hotel-du-champ-de-mars.com.

    Try to have just enough local currency (remember next year everything will be Euro) to get to your hotel, buy a Metro tickete and a Telecarte (the cheapest way to phone home or to make reservations anywhere in Europe, and pay phones don’t accept coins). Try not to make Paris a three-day stop on a grand European tour. Use Paris as a base and take train trips to everywhere else. Unless, of course, you can spend a year in Provence, la Peter Mayle.

    Bon vacances.