As longtime readers of the column know, every year about this time, Malibu Seen goes off in search of music, entertainment, excitement and eats over the Atlantic. Venice has always been a favorite for its outstanding opera and musical programs.
This year included some old favorites and unexpected treats.
We checked into the cozy confines of the Hotel Flora, conveniently located in the heart of the San Marco district, just steps away from concerts, museums and eateries. Through film festivals and eye-popping art shows, Flora has been my home away from home for almost 30 years and, for just as long, I have seen the same familiar faces, promising a memorable stay.
After fueling up with a mouthwatering prosciutto pizza at Aqua Pazza and a fresh plate of homemade pasta at Da Raffelle, we were off.
At Cheisa di San Vidal, musicians were warming up for an evening of Vivaldi and Bach. On the way, we discovered a most unusual sight. There, in front of the Gritti hotel, the city had constructed a special temporary bridge to the landmark Salute Church, which was built to commemorate the end of the great plague in the 1600s.
The next day, we found ourselves in the center of it all. The mayor of Venice gathered with cardinals, top military capos and a host of VIPs for a red, white and green ribbon-cutting ceremony. It was the place to be and everyone who was anyone was there.
After the mayor officially opened the bridge, we joined a procession through the streets of Venice to the stunning church where voices were lifted in song and the majestic organ played.
After a few days rest and an incredible Venetian feast at historic venues like Harry’s Bar and the Gritti, it was time for a side trip to Parma. There, we sampled world-famous Parma ham at La Forchetta, as well as aged Parmesan cheese at Angiol D’Or right around the corner.
Getting to Parma isn’t always easy, but here’s a tip, try staying right in the historic center at a charming local palazzo, like the vine-covered Rossa Prati, and you’ll be just a few steps from all the great sounds and sights and delicious bites.
Next, it was on to Rome and we could not resist a private tour to get a glimpse of the newly restored Sistine Chapel. With its recently installed LED lights, you’ll see Michelangelo’s masterpiece like it was meant to be seen, before decades of smoke, soot and grime took their toll. Our tour guide, Lara, did a great job with a three-hour excursion and, in the off-season, you can avoid the madding crowds. Another tip to travelers — the popular Via Condotti is now closed to traffic and is pedestrian only. It can be difficult finding a place to stay, but we managed to find a gem of a hotel only a few feet from where the taxis can still let you off. The Inn at the Spanish Steps is delightfully romantic with comfortable rooms and a charming terrace filled with tangerine, lemon and pomegranate trees.
Back in Venice, they were busy dismantling the special Salute Bridge after its special weeklong debut and the holiday lights were going up all across Italy.
They illuminated the piazzas and squares for a twinkling and electrifying send off.
All too soon, we were on our way home, packing a lifetime of magic and memories and ready to return.