Gifts of Christmas past

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MALIBU WAY OF LIFE

By Jody Stump

What’s your earliest holiday memory? A gift? A gathering? Something you wore or something you ate?

My earliest memory wraps them all together in a present I opened one Christmas Eve. I was curled into my father’s old wing chair, a blue and golden blaze crackling in the immense brick fireplace. My uncle doodled on the piano, practicing flourishes that might cover flat spots in the caroling to come. My mother’s splurge that year, a big blue spruce, was so covered in ornaments that its needles were invisible yet its sharp, resinous scent filled the room, merging with the heady spiciness of pomander balls piled in cut-glass punch bowls.

The hour was late, almost time for guests, when the dogs heard feet stamping snow on the front porch and began barking. I dashed after them and pulled open the heavy door. Instead of a guest, it was a UPS man all in brown, working late. In his hands was a big, flat rectangle wrapped in thick brown paper and addressed to me. “This must be for you,” he said.

I must have looked startled, but he pointed to a yellow label that said, “Open Christmas Eve.” My parents nodded and whispered with the foreknowledge of something lavish, “Neiman-Marcus.” I tore at the plain outer wrapping, exposing iridescent lavender paper with a handmade wax and feather angel perched on an extravagant silver bow. My mother plucked the angel and set her high atop the Christmas tree, a spot she returned to every year.

I peered inside the box. Layers of creamy tissue hid a nightgown dreams are made from. It was whisper-soft vanilla flannel with wide bat sleeves lined in crimson and skinny gold piping that etched its seams and cuffs in a shimmer of light. I pulled it over my head. A hush swept over the adults and my father rushed to grab his camera. Utterly happy, I tucked myself up again, into the deep contours of that battered chair, and drifted off to sleep, smelling the aromas of a feast emergent: mulled wine, melting chocolate, roasting meat and the most comforting of all, creamy potatoes with just a hint of garlic and thyme.

Potatoes Au Gratin

Just the aroma of sliver-thin potatoes and creamy cheese transports me to a happy holiday gone-by. Licking the spoon creates a new memory. I have tried many recipes, but this one, adapted from “The Union Square Café Cookbook,” is the best. And, if you don’t have the cookbook, don’t you deserve a present?

Serves 4 – 6

1 Tbs. butter

1 garlic clove, peeled and split

1/ 2 cup crème fraiche

3 cups heavy cream

Pinch each of freshly grated nutmeg, cayenne, white pepper

1 Tbs.. minced thyme

1 1/2 tsp. sea salt

4 large russet potatoes, peeled

1/2 pound Gruyere, grated

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2. Choose a gratin dish that fits inside your roasting pan. Lightly butter it and rub with garlic. Dot some crème fraiche inside the dish.

3. Combine cream, herbs and spices in a bowl. Slice the potatoes very thin on a mandoline. Drop slices into the bowl. Mix in the Gruyere.

4. Pour the potatoes into the dish, making sure they’re level. Dot crème fraiche into pockets between them. Place the dish in the roaster and pour in an inch of hot water. Bake about two hours. If it starts getting golden too soon, lightly cover with foil.

Latkes

For my Jewish friends who will be celebrating this week, I offer this traditional treat for Chanukah’s first night: latkes, or potato pancakes. Beware – making light, lacy, crunchy cakes requires attention to detail. Here are tricks from “The Dean and Deluca Cookbook:”

Serves 8

* Grate the potatoes by hand, using large holes. Squeeze out all the moisture in a towel.

* Make the batter loose if you want crunch. Cook right after stirring so the pancakes don’t separate.

* Heat oil over moderate heat until it glistens before cooking.

* Cook in small batches so the oil stays hot. Turn latkes only once – each time you flip them, latkes absorb more oil.

4 large russet potatoes, peeled

1 large onion, minced

1 egg

1/2 tsp. baking powder

2 Tbs. flour

Vegetable oil

Garnishes: sour cream, parsley, applesauce or caviar

1. Grate potatoes into a strainer. Add onion and squeeze out moisture with a towel.

2. In a large bowl, whisk together egg, flour and baking powder. Stir in potatoes. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Heat 1/4 cup of oil in a heavy skillet until very hot. Drop potatoes two tablespoons at a time, smoothing them into rounds. Fry 4 – 5 minutes per side until golden. Drain on paper towels.