Longtime Malibu eatery creates a new vibe.
By Kim Devore /Staff Writer
Only last year, if you wanted to get an ocean-view table on a hot day in the middle of summer, during a busy weekend, at the height of the tourist season, you could always rely on one place, with no waiting-Moonshadows.
But despite minor facelifts and many coats of paint, the Malibu institution had fallen on hard times. Locals didn’t go there and even out-of-towners barely bothered to drop in. The eatery, with its standard fare of clam buckets, artichoke dip and fried shrimp, was almost always empty.
But, no more. The Moonshadows of old has been given a hip, new look and a fresh, new menu, thanks to famed Malibu restaurateur Franco Simplico of Allegria fame and his partner, Andrea Bullo.
The crowds started coming almost as soon as the restaurant put up the new blue neon sign with its glowing martini glass. The invitation-only opening night party last Thursday was elbow-to-elbow, packed to capacity.
At first glance, it doesn’t look that different. But it is. The interior is understated and elegant, maximizing the dramatic ocean views. The dank, red carpet has been replaced with a concrete floor sprinkled with glittering blue sea glass. There are newly upholstered booths, seashell fixtures, potted palms, rattan chairs and bamboo ceilings. These subtle, but significant changes were part of the overall design plan.
“It’s rare to have a restaurant that’s been in business for 30 years,” Simplico says. “We wanted to retain some of the integrity of the property. It’s an updated version of the old.”
He also decided to retain the name. “We knew it had kind of a bad reputation with the locals. We thought about changing the name,” he explains, “but everybody knows Moonshadows, so we decided to keep it and use the word-of-mouth approach.”
Well, the word is out. The new Moonshadows with its outdoor Blue Lounge patio is busy almost every night and jammed on weekends.
But it takes more than dcor to pull in a crowd. The biggest change is on the menu. Yesterday’s staples and standards have been completely scrapped. Instead of teriyaki chicken, you’ll find grilled pork loin with roasted red pepper relish and bordelaise sauce, seared sea scallops with sweet yellow corn and beef carpaccio with arugula and ricotta cheese.
In the seven years he has run Allegria, Simplico has seen restaurants come and go and knows Malibu can be a tough town. Even if you do well on weekends, survival depends on local support. The locals are not only limited in number, they’re known for being somewhat tight with a buck and picky to boot. That’s why Simplico is hoping to draw them in with the view, menu and value.
“We thought we had an opportunity,” he says. “The difference between us and some of the other restaurants in town is the waterside location and our prices.”
In addition to food, Simplico hopes to turn the place into a local scene with a DJ on Fridays, a cigar night, a full moon celebration and a monthly jazz combo. “It’s going to be the happening place in Malibu,” boasts publicist Nina Andro.
Well, nothing’s a sure thing in these parts, but for now, Moonshadows sure seems to be off to a stellar start.