Coffee socials
Once upon a time-or so the legend goes-there was a young goatherd named Kaidi in the Ethiopian foothills. A lazy fellow, he counted on his flock to be as sleepy as he in the equatorial sun, but every time Kaidi snuggled in the shade to doze, his goats began to frolic, butting heads and butts, and prodding poor Kaidi awake. Soon, he unearthed the source of his annoyance-deep red berries growing on a tall green bush. The time was A.D. 850 and Kaidi had discovered coffee.
History failed to record what came next-how anyone figured out that coffee needed to be roasted, ground and steeped in boiling water to become palatable-but by the 1300s coffee was the most popular drink in the Middle East and protected by the Ottomans, despite objections from the mullahs who insisted Mohammed would not approve. It took another 300 hundred years before a small band of Brits stole seven unroasted “seeds” and smuggled them to India, breaking the Arab monopoly.
In 1658, London sold its first cup of coffee-an inky, almost chewy brew, meant to be sipped from tiny glasses, not gulped down with a doughnut. The price? A king’s ransom at five pounds an ounce. Coffee remained a luxurious curiosity until an enterprising Polish baker strained off the thick sediment and added heavy cream and sugar. Then, twisting his flaky, round rolls into crescents to commemorate Vienna’s victory over the Ottomans, Jerzy Kolschitsky invented the coffeehouse and ever since, coffee has been paired with pastry and good fellowship.
Four centuries later, coffeehouses are flourishing in the ‘Bu. There are two Starbucks, a Diedrich Coffee and a Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, not to mention the famed hangout of local politicos-Lily’s Cafe & Pastries in Point Dume. Each has a distinctive flavor, not just to the coffee it brews but to the population it serves. Like an urban anthropologist, I set out to discern the seeds (or beans?) of difference.
Starbucks at Trancas: This is where my tour began, at a place the door poster boasted was one of Fortune’s “100 Best Companies to Work for.” Maybe, but not to profile. When I asked my low-ball icebreaker, “What do people like to drink?” the answer was, “You’ll have to talk to Corporate.”
Lily’s Caf & Pastries: Owned for the past 11 years by Abel and Lily Castro, this hole-in-the-wall is one of Malibu’s simple, hidden delights. The Colombian coffee is always fresh-a mild, easy-to-drink accompaniment for the hand food-the real reason regulars return. Get a gooey, squishy raised doughnut still hot at the crack of dawn or try one of Abel’s bountiful breakfast burritos. A time-warp gem that has changed nary a pie rack in the 30 years it has occupied its breezeway; its prices are locked in time too. For the price of a Starbucks latte, you get an overstuffed burrito it takes two to down. Later in the day, West End old-timers hang out and editorialize, picking over local news like pigeons grabbing breadcrumbs.
Diedrich Coffee: This time of year, Diedrich’s patio feels like a slice of piazza with water tumbling and splashing in the three-tier fountain and geraniums spilling out of pots. A mere block from the best croissants in town (Champagne), Diedrich would be a winner even if the coffee were just acceptable, but the coffee is good-mellow roasted and smooth; pastries are delivered fresh from Il Fornaio or Taylor’s Mom. Diedrich regulars drink their coffee from porcelain cups and hang here because, as one devotee said, it was “a better place than home.” You’ll find a fair number of Pepperdine grad students and local writers plugging in PCs, folks conversing in an array of European languages and a crowd of Boomers on the weekend. When I asked several why they chose Diedrich, two answers prevailed: “Look at it!” and “Can’t you taste the difference!?”
Starbucks at Cross Creek: Stifled in the West End, I tried a different tack at this Starbucks-no opening gambit, just go for the coffee and gab on the way out. Again, most of those hanging out at this Starbucks were out-of-towners and almost everyone had a sweet tooth. The drinks of choice were Vanilla Lattes and Caramel Frappucinos. I tried the frappucino-espresso blended with cream, sugar and caramel, and topped with even more cream and caramel. Jerzy Kolschitsky would be proud. I asked my barista what made it different from similar fare at Coffee Bean or Diedrich. Well-schooled, he scoffed, “We use only real espresso and syrups-never powders.” Hmmmm.
The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf: Of course, I had to try the Coffee Bean’s famed “iced blended.” Sadly, Starbucks’ barista was right. It is a powder-in taste and consistency, much like the flavored protein powders you buy in big cans in a health food store, a bit watery and quite sweet. I found the reason so many young, lithe and chic-labeled people are devotees is the Wendy’s experience: “Have it your way.” Some order “decaf;” others, “sugar free.” Mocha, coconut, caramel, vanilla-you name it, the additives are awaiting your will. A big surprise was half the customers ordered tea, not coffee. Here, the choices are even more varied than in the blended-that’s the charm of the Coffee Bean … & Tea Leaf.