I hit the Oregon jackpot capturing a car rental from Enterprise for a weekly rate of $54.50 and a sensible airfare on Virgin America’s latest nonstop route between Los Angeles and Portland ($129.80). Planning for seven days of exploring Oregon’s scenic byways revealed a panoply of lava beds, fossils, rodeos, fields of lavender, covered bridges and an unexpected trip back in time to the Kam Wah Chung Museum in John Day, a vintage trading post surviving the gold rush.
Whether it was the fact there is no sales tax here or that “all Oregon gas stations are required to pump their gas for you,” the charisma of America’s 10th-largest state is off the charts. Exploring some of the most gorgeous scenery in America, one finds a state steeped in history, humor and natural wonders. There are 26 scenic byways and tour routes, such as the “Journey Through Time” Byway and the Grand Tour Route through the town of Joseph that is better known as “Little Switzerland.” It all comes together thanks to Travel Oregon’s 2012-2013 travel guide, a tome bursting with worthy roadside stops and blended with historical homages, u-pick tours through scenic orchards and pleasant diversions in the mode of Summer Fishtrap, a writers retreat held at Wallowa Lake.
We started our journey in Portland, checking into the 127-room Hotel Lucia in the heart of downtown and hearing about their current exhibition of 680 photographs by David Hume Kennerly, a former White House photographer. His black and white photographs transformed the usually somber hotel hallways into a retrospective of mid-century nostalgia. The Lucia, part of the Provenance Group, is on a roll, making the list of the Top Sexiest Hotels in Trip Advisor. Mt. Hood’s 35-mile Fruit Loop is about an hour ride from Portland. Two lavender festivals fragrance the air, mingling with country bakeries, barbecue, thrift shops and yard sales. The Oregon Lavender Festival (typically held mid-July) covers 23 gardens while the 8th Annual Oregon Lavender DAZE Festival at Hood River Lavender Farms welcomes visitors with free admission, food and wine vendors, and certified organic lavender for “U-pick.” The Lavender Valley Lavender Farms covers four lush acres showcasing the hand-painted glassware of a charming 93-year old lady artist who was introduced to us as the owner’s mother, “Bubba.” Lavender-infused products from facial sprays and hand creams to jams and chocolate are made on the premises and sold in a cottage adjacent to the lavender field.
Getting lost trying to find the Apple Valley BBQ in Parkdale along the Fruit Loop, we discovered the glassometry studios of Laurel Marie Hagner.
A glass angel suspended from the ceiling made us realize just how heavenly a place Hood River Valley can be for travelers. Punctuated with vineyards, nut and berry farms, alpacas roaming free, fruit stands selling ripe Rainer and Bing cherries, oversized blueberries and pears galore, this rural region welcomes visitors with bike paths, picnic areas, hiking trails, comfortable country inns and a heap of local special celebrations, mainly promoting country-style cooking. If you crave sushi, stay in Portland.
Hot apple pie sundaes, fresh-pressed cider, apple cinnamon rolls slathered in white frosting and homemade caramel ice cream can be found at Packer Orchard and Bakery October 27, 28 to give you an idea of the comfort cuisine dominating this corner of Oregon. Check it out at www.hoodriverfruitloop.com.
Pam Price is the co-author of “Day Trips from Los Angeles” (www.globepequot.com)