Everybody’s going surfin’ as local writer Ben Marcus outlines the basics for beginners with an assist from Zuma Jay and Miss Malibu 2012.
By Michael Aushenker / Special to The Malibu Times
If you need to research writing the definitive book on surfing, there’s probably no better consultant to seek out than Jefferson “Zuma Jay” Wagner at his venerable, 38-year-old Zuma Jay shop on Pacific Coast Highway.
That’s what writer and surfer Ben Marcus did with “The Surfing Handbook: Mastering the Waves for Beginning and Amateur Surfers,” published by MVP Books and released in June.
“I fully endorsed the book, I helped him with the text and financing,” said Wagner, a former Malibu mayor and current city councilman.
An author of 15 books predominantly on the popular water sport, Marcus is no slouch when it comes to surfing, his favorite pastime growing up in Santa Cruz. Marcus has a slew of related books, such as “Surfing USA!,” “Surfing and the Meaning of Life” and “The Skateboard: Art, Style, Stoke,” in publication. His writing career began 23 years ago after he sold a story about a surfing expedition in Mundaka titled, “You Wouldn’t Read About It,” when Surfer magazine ponied up $450 for it. Segue to Marcus as a managing editor at Surfer magazine from 1988-98, when he edited some 130 issues.
“The reason I came to Malibu in 2003 is Jay wanted to do a book on Surf Wax,” Marcus recalled of his first professional collaboration with Wagner. “That was the second book I did. He hired me to do another [on the Malibu Pier],” however, the project dragged and “we ran out of money.”
Much of that material found its way into Marcus’ other books, including the pending, “Images of America: Malibu” from Arcadia Publishing, to be released Nov. 14.
In “Surfing Handbook,” Marcus said, “I used Jay as the experienced surf shop guy because he’s seen a bunch of beginner surfers. It’s a basic learn-to-surf book. Jay knows the whole spiel forward and backward. We used all Malibu people.”
One of those locals is Gabrielle Brie, Miss Malibu 2012, who posed as a model in the book’s pictorial section.
“We shot at a variety of secret beaches around Malibu,” Marcus said. “Brie is a beautiful goofball … A gorgeous goofball. She was recommended by Jerry Derloshon [senior director of public affairs] at Pepperdine University [because she could surf].”
Marcus remembered his initial reaction.
“At first I said, ‘Brie Gabrielle? That sounds like a Folies Bergere dancer!!! I want a surfer,” Marcus said, smiling.
“Surfing Handbook” also provides steps to avoid, such as “snaking,” paddling under, around, or over another surfer, or “dropping in,” snaking while said surfer is already riding a wave, as well as the nuances of longboards versus shortboards, and Malibu-related history on the sport, surfer etiquette and tips from established pros, such as Keegan Edwards. Colorful terms abound such as, “Morning sickness”-ill wind blowing onshore as the sun is coming up.”
Of “Surfing Handbook,” Wagner said he enjoyed working with writer/historian Marcus and he loves the final product.
“It turned out absolutely wonderful,” he said. “It’s our best-selling book [at Zuma Jay] because it’s not pretentious. We all put our best foot forward.”